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Delinostrum´s Guide
to Spanish Ham
Everything you need to know to select and
enjoy a Spanish Ham.
CONTENTS:
1. A
longstanding tradition
2. Types of Spanish
ham
2.1. Serrano ham
2.2. Iberico ham
2.3. Other aspects
3. How to choose
your Spanish ham
4. How to carve
your Spanish ham
5. Spanish ham
serving and storage tips
6. Spanish ham
and health
7. What to drink
with Spanish ham
1. A LONGSTANDING TRADITION
The deliciously tempting Spanish ham had already captivated the senses and stomachs of the Romans that inhabited Hispania as far back as the 2nd century B.C. They used to cure pork meat in salt, thus sowing the seed of what has become one of the most appreciated foods all over the world. Its central role in Spanish gastronomy has remained unchanged over the centuries and writers such as Cervantes -who found space in his famous “Don Quixote” to mention this delicacy- have played their part in spreading the news about the incomparable properties attached to its exquisiteness. What used to be Spain’s best kept secret is now an essential item in any gourmet larder.
Today’s production techniques are inherited from the ancient methods, and they still follow the same basic principles of slaughtering, curing and ageing.
2. TYPES OF SPANISH HAM
The taste, quality and price of Spanish hams vary enormously depending on:
• The type of pig it comes from
• The way the pig has been fed
• Which leg –front or back- has been used to make the ham
• The way the ham is cured
The most important factor, without a doubt, is the type of pig. According to this, Spanish hams can be categorised as:
• White pig: Serrano ham, cured ham, “Jamon del
País” or "Jamon de Bodega"
• Iberian pig: Iberico ham
2.1. Serrano ham
Hams obtained from selected white pigs have a softer, sweeter taste and aroma than Iberico hams. They can be enjoyed on their own or used for cooking and their price is significantly lower than that of Iberico hams. This ham, when still tender, looks similar to Parma ham and it can usually be found in some foreign supermarkets. However, even within this category the difference in quality can be vast. There is:
• Serrano ham without an Origin Guarantee (Denomination of Origin):
» Plain
serrano ham
• Serrano ham with an Origin Guarantee:
» Serrano
ham from Trevélez
» Serrano ham
from Teruel
Plain serrano ham is the simplest of all serrano hams. This can still be quite good, but it is in this category where you are more likely to find poor quality, factory-produced hams with artificial additives. On the other hand, serrano hams that have an official Origin Certificate are guaranteed to come from a specific breed of pigs of a minimum weight, to be produced in a limited geographical region that has certain particular characteristics, to follow traditional production methods and to have a minimum curing period. These hams can be exceptionally tasty, and their qualities are clearly superior than those of hams obtained through industrial processes. You will recognise them for their delicate and complex taste, their streaks of yellowish fat and their soft and shiny texture.
Serrano ham from Trevelez, for instance, is produced in the Alpujarras region in Granada (Andalusia) at an altitude of around 1,700 m. It comes from Landrace, Large White and Duroc Jersey pigs and has a minimum curing period of 14 months.
2.2. Iberico ham
Iberico hams are a world-apart, differing not only from serrano hams, but from any other hams in the world! Their flavours and aromas, after two years of aging, are so complex, so nutty, buttery, earthy and floral that Iberico hams deserve to be held in the same regard as white truffles, Beluga caviar, French champagne or any other comparable delicacy. It is its unique, complex and intense flavour –it is always served raw and very rarely used in cooking- that makes this product one of the most renowned Spanish delicacies amongst gourmets.
Iberico ham comes from the Spanish indigenous Iberian pig. This breed, a close relative of the aggressive wild boar, has inhabited the south-western part of Spain for centuries. These wooded meadowlands are where the Iberian pig can find its favourite food: acorns. These pigs lead quite a privileged life, wandering around beautiful oak forests and exercising their muscles all day. It is precisely in the Iberian pig´s muscles where the secret behind the exquisite taste of Iberico ham lies.
Indeed, the Iberian pig´s unique ability to transform the fats from the acorns into streaks that run through its muscle tissue is what gives the Iberico ham its beautifully marbled texture and distinctive aroma. The rich meat is finely striated with fat and has a hint of a taste that gives a clue as to the foods found in the environment where the animal has been raised: acorns, grasses, roots, herbs, spices, tubers and wild mushrooms found on the meadowland. Furthermore, acorn-fed Iberico ham has the property of liquefying at a low temperature—room temperature, for example—so it literally melts in your mouth.
Quality-wise, the main factor to take into account with Iberico hams is the way the pig has been fed:
• Iberico ham “Bellota”: the finest quality. The Iberian pigs have been reared free-range in the mountains and fed exclusively on acorns (bellota). The pigs grow in the “dehesa” (meadowlands), a privileged natural environment. This exclusivity is obviously reflected in the high price it achieves.
• Iberico ham “Recebo”: this name denotes mixed feeding. The pig eats acorns and pasture, but its last 30% of weight is achieved through compound feeding.
Just like serrano hams, there are also official Origin Guarantees (Denominations of Origin) for Iberico hams that guarantee their origin and ensure that they have been produced following traditional methods:
• Iberico ham without an Origin Guarantee:
» Plain
Iberico ham
• Iberico ham with an Origin Guarantee:
» Iberico
ham from Guijuelo
» Iberico ham
from Extremadura
» Iberico ham
from Huelva
» Iberico ham
from Pedroches
2.3. Other aspects
Finally, we must make a distinction based on the part of the pig used. This applies to both Serrano and Iberico hams:
• Ham –“jamon”-: the pig’s back
legs are used
• Shoulder –“paleta”-: the pig’s
front legs are used
There are a couple of points here to bear in mind. Shoulders are smaller –usually weighing 4-6 kg- hence they are perfect for an individual or a couple, as they will not dry out. In addition, the shoulder meat tends to be softer, since it is greasier than that of the ham. On the other hand, a ham weighs around 6-8 kg and so it is recommended for more regular consumption.
Finally, you can buy a ham or shoulder either as a whole piece –i.e. with the bone- or off the bone-. The latter can be practical, particularly if you are short of space in the kitchen or don´t fancy the idea of seeing a whole pig´s leg next to your kettle!
Buying an off-the-bone ham, however, can have some major drawbacks: it is rather difficult to carve it in thin slices, unless you have a slicer, in which case, the heat coming off the slicer blade may have –some experts believe- a negative effect on its quality and taste and it tends to dry out quicker than a whole ham. Moreover, the slices will never look as nice as if they have been cut by hand. A whole ham can also make a fantastic centrepiece at a dinner party and, what´s more, carving a whole ham is a sheer pleasure not to be underestimated!
NOTE: If you buy a whole ham we highly recommend that, for your own safety and comfort, you use a ham holder or “jamonero” -to fix the ham when you are carving it- and a suitable ham knife or “cuchillo jamonero” with a long, thin blade.
3. HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR SPANISH HAM
If you are not sure which ham is the best one for you, we suggest you take the following route:
1. FORMAT: Whole ham or off the bone?
Choose an off-the-bone ham if:
» You don’t have room in your kitchen
for a whole ham
» You are reluctant to see a whole pig’s
leg in your kitchen!
» You prefer the speed of a slicer
Choose a whole ham if:
» You enjoy the “real thing” i.e. the
ham in its natural state
» You want to experience the carving “ritual”
» You want the highest quality of ham slices
2. TYPE: Serrano ham or Iberico ham?
Choose a Serrano ham if:
» Price is the main factor
» You also want to use the ham for cooking
» You prefer a a softer taste, more similar to other hams
Choose an Iberico ham if:
» Quality is the main factor
» You will only serve the ham raw
» You prefer a richer, more intense taste, unique to this kind of ham
3. IBERICO QUALITY: "Cebo" (compound-fed) or "bellota" (acorn-fed)?
Choose an Iberico ham "cebo" if:
» You are looking for a compromise between
price and quality
Choose an Iberico ham "bellota" if:
» You want the highest quality
4. SIZE: Ham or shoulder?
Choose a shoulder if:
» You plan to eat only a bit of ham everyday
–i.e. an individual or a couple
» You want to try a smaller piece before going
for a bigger ham
Choose a ham if:
» You plan to consume a lot of ham everyday
–i.e. a whole family or a restaurant
» You prefer a less greasy meat
4. HOW TO CARVE YOUR SPANISH HAM
A good carving is essential to ensure the enjoyment of a Spanish ham. There are no real secrets here: only the right tools, patience and practice!
As mentioned earlier, it is important to use a ham holder to fix the ham when carving it. It is not only safer, but it also makes the job a lot easier. The carving knife should also be of the proper type, with a long, narrow and flexible blade.
Whether cut by hand -as tradition demands- or by machine, the key is to make thin, almost transparent slices that melt in your mouth, spreading their aroma and flavour.
1. The first point to consider is how fast you plan to consume your ham:
• If the entire piece is to be consumed immediately –i.e. within 1 or 2 days- place the ham with the hoof upwards and remove all the rind. This way, you will start carving the ham from its “juicier” area.
• If the ham is to be consumed over a longer period of time, place it with the hoof downwards and remove only the necessary rind as the ham is cut. Placing the ham in this position means that you will start carving it from its “drier” area, thus preventing this to become too dry and salty when you finally get to it.
2. With a wide blade kitchen knife make a deep cut in the shank and remove the top rind and fat layer. IMPORTANT: Keep some fat strips, as they must be used to cover the cut area of the ham, to prevent it from drying out.
3. Using the ham knife, start carving slices of ham about 3 inches long, as thinly as you can, with great care and a short sawing movement. Keep the cutting line straight at all times. As you carve the ham, remove only the minimum rind and fat as necessary. After cutting, protect the exposed meat of the ham with some strips of fat and rind.
4. On reaching the hip bone, make a deep cut around it with a short kitchen knife.
5. The meat closer to the bones can be cut in dices –it is difficult to slice it. These are ideal as a tapa, or for using in stews or salads.
6. When you are finished with this side of the ham, you can turn it over and continue to carve it in the usual way.
7. Once you are down to the ham bone, you can saw the bone –or get your local butcher to do it for you-. Freeze the pieces if you want, and use these as a delicious flavour enhancement for stews and soups.
5. SPANISH HAM SERVING AND STORAGE TIPS:
• Spanish ham should be eaten at room temperature –around 21ºC-.
• As you carve your ham, place the slices on a warm plate, slightly overlapping –never one on top of each other.
• Spanish ham is superb on its own, but you can also eat it with some bread with a drizzle of olive oil or, as they do in Catalonia, with also some bread rubbed with ripe tomato.
• Cut only as much ham as you plan to eat straightaway. If you cut more ham than you will eat, cover it with thin foil and store it in the refrigerator. Before consuming, leave outside the refrigerator for at least two hours, so it can acclimatise.
• You may see some tiny white spots on the ham meat. These are crystals of an amino acid called tyrosine, not the result of any problem with the ham. On the contrary, most experts consider these spots a sign of quality.
• Hams do not really go out of date, although they dry out with time. In ideal storage conditions, a ham can last for about a year, although it is best to eat it within 2 to 3 months.
• To keep your Spanish ham in perfect condition, place it in a dry, cool and airy place, at room temperature. Do not keep it in the refrigerator, unless it is an off-the-bone ham.
• It is normal that a mould forms on the outside of the rind. This is not harmful and you can remove it with a damp cloth.
• Always protect any exposed meat with some fat and rind strips –you should save these when you first start cutting your ham. In addition, you can also cover the ham with a dry cloth.
6. SPANISH HAM AND HEALTH:
• Spanish ham is widely recognised as one of the main constituents of a healthy Mediterranean diet.
• It is rich in iron, magnesium, calcium, phosphorous, vitamins B1 and B2 and niacin.
• 100 grams of ham provide one quarter of the recommended daily intake of niacin and one third of protein.
• Spanish ham contains 50% more protein than fresh meat.
• The fat contained in Spanish ham has a high proportion of oleic acid –also found in olive oil-, a healthy type of monounsaturated fat that reduces the “bad” cholesterol and promotes the production of the “good” one.
• NOTE: Whilst being healthy, too much fat may also lead to becoming overweight -100 grams of Spanish ham contains 200 Kcal of energy. Therefore, although admittedly it may be hard to achieve sometimes, please eat Spanish ham within reasonable limits!
7. WHAT TO DRINK WITH SPANISH HAM
A classic accompaniment to Spanish and Iberico hams is a good red wine, either young or aged. A dry white will also do well, particularly if it is not too acidic and has been slightly aged. Beer also makes a good marriage.
The experts, however, believe that the best accompaniments for Spanish ham are “Fino” and “Manzanilla”. The soft, slightly salty, non-acidic aromas of these Andalusian wines are divine with Spanish ham. Furthermore, their hint of bitterness at the end is a perfect match for the -also slightly bitter- taste of the Spanish ham fat.
Salud!
Delinostrum
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